New York City 10-13 Dec 1998

Well I finally did it. After two years I decided that I can either spend my whole life wanting to go to New York at Christmas or I could actually go to New York at Christmas. In any case the whole thing was quite cheap and if it hadn't been it wouldn't matter as the experience was worth a lot more than mere money.
I went for a variety of reasons. Of course I couldn't be bothered to explain to anyone so it seemed easier to claim that it was a shopping trip. There truly is a sucker born every minute. Of course I wanted to see the entertainment, finance and shopping capital of the world but the main reason was to be somewhere vibrant and happening with a wide mix of cultures and some audacious architecture thrown in. And that's what I found. Manhattan's a wild place, but it also seemed strangely safe. And they serve huge donuts. One thing that struck me was a car. Ouch. But seriously the cars are all so big and clean, in England they're mostly covered in crap.
Anyway, I went to Manhattan expecting it to be like in Friends. Chalk and cheese, I'm afraid. This becomes more apparent when you consider that Friends is filmed entirely in California. What I remember about it is the sight and smell of food carts in the streets, the steam rising from the sewers, the size, vitality and bustle, the sheer number of people in Times Square at midnight, a squirrel trying to cross an eight lane road near the United Nations (the little *!#@;+&"* made it as well), fit young people running in Central Park with their dogs or on rollerblades or pushbikes (not the fat Americans people would have us believe exist- I tried to run myself but it's so much harder when you're wearing a greatcoat and gloves and carrying a bag. Still, I'm going back next year with my running kit and I'll show 'em how it's done- Forrest Gump style.) There were also some squirrels in Central Park- little pests- and a nice cat in the hostel I stayed at, but very few animals in the city itself. I didn't take a taxi but I did ride on the subway and took a ferry to Staten Island. The subway's a little bit shabby and a bit confusing at first for stupid types like myself. It's cheap though, although at no dollars the Staten Island ferry was somewhat cheaper. It goes to Staten Island amazingly (it seems obvious but where does the Holland tunnel go to?). The ferry went past the Statue of Liberty and afforded a fine view of the financial district of Manhattan. Anyone would think from all the pictures you see of New York that the Statue of Liberty stands not far out in New York Harbor with Manhattan behind, but no, she's about two miles out with Jersey City behind her. Still, a very fine piece of work she is.
About the best trip I took was to Two World Trade Center. The lift to the 107th floor takes just 58 seconds and up there there's a takeaway restaurant, a simulated helicopter ride and some nice views. Now by sheer jamminess I was able to get up there just as the sun was going over the horizon and the lights were coming on all over the island. (I had to run to get there and ask for directions, difficult because the people you ask often don't speak English, and embarrassing because finding two 110 storey towers should have been easy. ) Anyway there I was, and just in time I found the escalator to the roof. I'd foolishly left without my coat in the morning, and I had been shivering in Central Park. Seventeen hundred feet up it was a little bit more cold and windy. I was freezing my bollocks off and my Santa hat was wedged on so tightly it was hurting my neck, but as it became darker and the buildings lit up, "like diamonds on a black velvet background" you couldn't have dragged me off that roof. I tried taking photos but you just can't begin to see the wondrousness of it all in a bit of celluloid.

Oh Ok I did do a bit of shopping, some New York souvenirs as Christmas presents and a pair of jeans for my friend from Macy's, the biggest shop in the world and tres tres chic in places. I also went to FAO Schwarz, the toy shop where Tom Hanks cavorted in Big, and where people now queue for Furbies. I almost had lunch at Tiffany's, but I doubt they'd have appreciated me eating a huge sticky donut near all their nice jewellery.

I stayed at the Big Apple Hostel near Times square. Times Square was my favourite part of the city, and had some really quite large neon signs. I saw two Broadway shows: Beauty & The Beast with Toni Braxton, and The Blue Room with Nicole Kidman and Iain Glen. I had to pay full price for Beauty & The Beast, but it's not the sort of thing you do every day. I also saw Nicole Kidman in the flesh, once literally, on the stage, and then outside the theatre. I had to wait for an hour in a crowd of people until she came out but it was worth it.

In another act of jamminess I managed to have a window seat both ways on the plane. I did have to wait four hours at Heathrow but at least they've got some decent shops there, not like Newark where there is one newsstand. On the way back the plane flew over Manhattan but I was directly over the wing, almost screaming at the pilot 'dip the wing you £$^$%*^%*^$'. I did get some decent views though of the World Trade Center and the Empire State Building and the rectangular darkness of Central Park. I had almost shed a tear as the plane left the ground, but I'm going back. Oh yes I'm going back, as soon as I've paid off the credit card for this trip. And also if I go next year I'll be able to drink. Cool times ahead.

Travel

Written by Ed on December 17 1998